Noisy Timing Chain Tensioner - '07 MINI "S"

[dickmason97439]

Has anyone yet found a fix for the clattering timing chain tensioner on early-production '07 "S" models? If my car sits for an extended timeframe (12-24+ hours), I get a noticable rattle from the timing chain area for about 1-2 minutes or a mile or two on the road. No noise problems for the rest of the day and on subsequent "warm" starts.

BMW has issued a tech bulletin to the service reps concerning the noise. The local MINI dealer just replaced the original timing chain tensioner with a revised part, but no luck - still rattles on cold starts. :(

Anyone else heard about possible fixes? Other than the noise, I love the car!

[Bogo]

I work for a MINI dealer if your car has had the timing chain tensioner done then I would say you do not have a problem. The N14 cooper S engine rattles at start up after standing due to the nature of the Oil pump. Its first cycle it runs dry and clatters. This is normal.

Odviousley I cannot hear the noise you are describing so i cannot be sure. At our dealer we have a sound clip that BMW has released that we show our customers and 99% of the people who listen to it are happy that the noise are satisfied that there car is perfectly fine.

Recomend popping to you local dealer and getting them to have a look again.

Hope this helps

[dickmason97439]

Bogo - Thanks for the information! This is the first reference I've seen to the oil pump itself, vice an issue with the chain tensioner. I'm a weekend gearhead enthusiast who enjoys restoring old MGs, so I do know just enough about motors to be dangerous. Is there a link to any further information or that sound clip on the oil pump? I live 200 miles from the nearest MINI dealer, so wandering over for a chat is inconvenient. Sure wish someone - anyone - would publish a shop manual for the '07 MINIs.

I own 2 '07 MINI "S" coupes - mine, the early one with the startup rattle, and my wife's, a mid-year "S" that has no similar startup noises at all.

Thanks again for the info!

[dickmason97439]

Bogo: You stated " The N14 cooper S engine rattles at start up after standing due to the nature of the Oil pump. Its first cycle it runs dry and clatters. This is normal."

I've never heard of a dry-running, clattering oil pump. I can tell you everything you'd ever want to know about rebuilding old MG oil pumps (the other car is a '51 TD), but this is something new for me. Could you provide us more information on this design, how it works, and why it rattles like it does? What do you mean by "first cycle"? What would be not normal with this design?

Is there a public link to that audio file BMW has provided to the dealers?

[Bogo]

im sorry i am not aware of the exact design and am only providing the infromation that we are given by BMW as we see alot of these concerns through the dealership.

[Bogo]

also there is no public link for the audio file and BMW would not take kindly to me supplying the copy as it is copyright blar blar blar sorry

[ohmegahi]

I had my R56 Mini tensioner replaced and still makes the noise but it is not as bad as before. It still make the noise for about a minute.

[dickmason97439]

All those with the MCS "death rattle" start-up problem (like me) should read this link to the Michigan MINI club forum. Aside from being MINI fanatics, they're also automotive and engine designers and engineers by profession. They walk the talk.

It's a lengthly read (13 pages), but they lay out a very convincing case from modern valve train theory and design, standard industry practice, and examination of the R56 valve train assembly components that the root cause of the R56 start-up "death rattle" is poorly designed hydraulic lash adjusters and excessive "dry lash" clearances during assembly - and absolutely nothing to do with the timing belt tensioner
http://www.michiganmini.org/forum/index.php?topic=3115.0

They lay the noise blame on a poorly designed (cheap) HLA that quickly bleeds down and depletes it's internal oil reservour after shutdown. After start, the HLA becomes a pneumatic lash adjuster until sump oil is finally pumped into the valve train assembly and the ingested air is slowly bled out of the HLAs. The shutdown position of the camshaft lobes will affect how many HLAs end up depleted, and the subsequent amount and variability of the start-up "rattle".

As Tom, their valve train designer/engineer guru states in their forum, the "rattle" we're hearing is not the HLA, but the valve itself smacking back into the cylinder head due to the "deflated" HLA. He recommends we do not exceed 2,000 rpm until the noise stops to avoid valve damage or breakage. His other recommendations are using a 0W30 synthetic oil and non-stop complaining to MINI. The engineers emphasize that the noise is NOT NORMAL, and make sure the dealers hear that loud and clear.

The above is paraphrased from their web site. I'm no expert. "Tom" is the valve train designer/engineer who is leading the charge on this. He owns 2 MINI's - a '07 MCS and a new Clubman. It takes awhile to read thru the entire thread, but I learned a lot about engine design, valve train, hydraulic lash adjusters, and camshaft theory and standards. Definitely not light reading, but it made a believer out of me. It certainly explains why replacing the tensioner is an exercise in futility.

[ohmegahi]

Thanks for the info.

[weasel]

In relation to the issues regarding the horrible rattle heard on start up the has been a revised action to hopefully rectify this issue and it concerns the leght of the tensioner in its installed state and depending on the measured length either a new special order tensioner will be required or a new chain, tensioner and guides will be needed

[jmbd7h3]

The link is broken? Help?

[dickmason97439]

In relation to the issues regarding the horrible rattle heard on start up the has been a revised action to hopefully rectify this issue and it concerns the leght of the tensioner in its installed state and depending on the measured length either a new special order tensioner will be required or a new chain, tensioner and guides will be needed

So, you're saying there's a new revised revised tensioner fix, and that I have to go back to the dealer again to remove the new tensioner installed last month? Just as well - didn't solve my start-up rattle at all. Hope these things don't turn into another Yugo ... We never saw the Allegro stateside, but I hear that car had it's share of problems, too.

The link in msg #8 has been fixed. Sorry about that.

[jmbd7h3]

So I got my local MINI dealer convinced the noise was a problem (two calls to MINI customer service and one successful conversation with the local service manager where he started the car and it rattled for him). They brought out a "master tech" to look into the problem. The resulting action was a purge procedure outlined in the service bulletin.

I asked my service adviser what they purged. He told me it wasn't a traditional purge but more of a procedure. They set the RPMs at 3,000 and let it run. Perhaps cleaned something . . .?

Presumably this procedure will thermal cycle the engine while running an optimal oil pressure. The result should be any condensation in the engine is removed (really?!), and, more reasonably, an adequate charge will be created in any oil pressurized pistons including the lifters.

I doubt very much this will fix the problem as the issue is pressure leak down not a failure to create pressure. However, for those of you at a loss for how to deal with this problem, this is something you could try yourself. I'll let you know more when I do.

[popeye]

Gents I have a 07 Cooper S ,
I complained to my local BMW Mini centre.Monday this week they fitted under warranty The latest BMW advised fix the chain rattle kit.
so far so good the kit has several parts .
2 Tensioners side and top rails various screws and a sping , best I could read off the screen at BMW . It seems to have worked no rattle on start up
no rattle on take off in first gear. Only time will tell !
BMW Will replace under warranty ,but it won't be a recall .
Take it back and make them fix it . If I wanted a diesel I would have bought one .! There is no such thing as a mechanical noise that is ok and won't do any harm as the service advisor told me . Eventually something has to give .

cheers Guys Popeye

[dickmason97439]

So I got my local MINI dealer convinced the noise was a problem (two calls to MINI customer service and one successful conversation with the local service manager where he started the car and it rattled for him). They brought out a "master tech" to look into the problem. The resulting action was a purge procedure outlined in the service bulletin.

I asked my service adviser what they purged. He told me it wasn't a traditional purge but more of a procedure. They set the RPMs at 3,000 and let it run. Perhaps cleaned something . . .?

Presumably this procedure will thermal cycle the engine while running an optimal oil pressure. The result should be any condensation in the engine is removed (really?!), and, more reasonably, an adequate charge will be created in any oil pressurized pistons including the lifters.

I doubt very much this will fix the problem as the issue is pressure leak down not a failure to create pressure. However, for those of you at a loss for how to deal with this problem, this is something you could try yourself. I'll let you know more when I do.

You're right, this "procedure" won't fix anything. This was the original tech bulletin sent out to the dealers in response to the first complaints about the start-up rattle. They (and you can, too) start the car and hold the rpms to 2,000 for two minutes. The "purge" referred to is the slow process of bleeding unwanted air out of all the hydraulic lash adjusters that ended up in a compressed position at the last shut-down. A properly designed HLA has enough internal oil reservoir capacity to maintain it's hydraulic function after start until fresh oil arrives from the oil pump.

Like the old Triumph Stag V8 motor - the one that ran for 30,000 miles then blew up - a really good design has been compromised by inferior out-sourced parts.

[jmbd7h3]

So I got my local MINI dealer convinced the noise was a problem (two calls to MINI customer service and one successful conversation with the local service manager where he started the car and it rattled for him). They brought out a "master tech" to look into the problem. The resulting action was a purge procedure outlined in the service bulletin.

I asked my service adviser what they purged. He told me it wasn't a traditional purge but more of a procedure. They set the RPMs at 3,000 and let it run. Perhaps cleaned something . . .?

Presumably this procedure will thermal cycle the engine while running an optimal oil pressure. The result should be any condensation in the engine is removed (really?!), and, more reasonably, an adequate charge will be created in any oil pressurized pistons including the lifters.

I doubt very much this will fix the problem as the issue is pressure leak down not a failure to create pressure. However, for those of you at a loss for how to deal with this problem, this is something you could try yourself. I'll let you know more when I do.

I picked up my MINI and haven't had the noise since they performed "the procedure." The work order did state the oil was 0.6-quarts too much (from MINI oil change). Perhaps the oil was frothing due to overfill which is why it wouldn't prime the lifters.

We haven't had the very cold temperatures recently, so that may have more to do with the problem going away. I must wait and see now.

I second the previous poster's recommendation. MINI seems to have a revised service bulletin out with a series of potential fixes now. Take your car in and tell them you "have a metal to metal noise," and "it is not the noise the injector solenoids make." If the service adviser tells you it is a trait of the engine, talk to the service manager, politely. If the service manager won't or can't help, inform MINI customer service so they can speak to the service manager on your behalf. If you reach someone at MINI customer service that won't help, call back until you get someone that does.

Have a sound clip of your engine if possible. Anyone who knows anything about engines, as a service manager should, gets chills when they hears the top end rattle of this engine.

Be polite! Remember this is just a misunderstanding. No one is out to get you. Dealer personnel and MINI customer service rep awareness of this issue is much, much less than the online forums would lead you to believe. Most everybody wants to help you, so help them help you. Be assertive that your problem is real, but don't be an impolite, threatening, consumer. This will get you no where unless you truly do intend to litigate!

FYI, the normal tick, tick, tick sound of your engine is a solenoid engaging to push fuel through the injectors. This is truly a trait of the engine created by the decision to use solenoids for this purpose as opposed to a hydraulically actuated injector or a high pressure common rail.

However, the metal to metal noise is a problem. You don't have to argue with MINI about the finer technical points of valve lash, lifters, or chain tension technology. You need to tell them, "I'm never going to be able to sell this car while it sounds like this." That statement claims a financial loss created by ownership of the car, which touches on the foundation for the lemon laws in most states. This approach should be much more effective than trying to engineer a solution, which is MINI's responsibility.

And if you are still under the protection of your state's lemon laws, take the car to the dealership, attempt to get a repair, and open a lemon law case directly with your state's attorney office. You have a limited time to open the case, but the case can be open for a long while. So open the case to lock in the rights your state has afforded you. Opening a case does not begin a litigation. It only secures your right to do so at a later date.

[MiniHub]

My wife's '07 Cooper 'S' has had this problem virtually from new. Firstly, dealer couldn't hear it (the car was always warmed up by the time we got it there!), then they topped up the oil (!!) which made no difference (surprise!), then they renewed the chain tensioner (lasted a couple of months), then this week fitted a 'modified' part. The thing is though, for the last two weeks the car has been running badly between 1200 - 1500 rpm (no matter which gear its in). It 'hunts' like mad and the car shakes if you sit stationary and hold it on these revs. It's too early to tell if the rattle is cured, but the erratic running isn't! Now I'm wondering if the engine's actually damaged itself due to BMW failing to acknowledge the extent of the issue soon enough. Going back to dealer again next week. The 'ammunition' gained from this forum is excellent! Anyone out there got any opinion on whether the engine on our car might be damaged?

[jmbd7h3]

I picked up my MINI and haven't had the noise since they performed "the procedure." The work order did state the oil was 0.6-quarts too much (from MINI oil change). Perhaps the oil was frothing due to overfill which is why it wouldn't prime the lifters.

We haven't had the very cold temperatures recently, so that may have more to do with the problem going away. I must wait and see now.

I second the previous poster's recommendation. MINI seems to have a revised service bulletin out with a series of potential fixes now. Take your car in and tell them you "have a metal to metal noise," and "it is not the noise the injector solenoids make." If the service adviser tells you it is a trait of the engine, talk to the service manager, politely. If the service manager won't or can't help, inform MINI customer service so they can speak to the service manager on your behalf. If you reach someone at MINI customer service that won't help, call back until you get someone that does.

Have a sound clip of your engine if possible. Anyone who knows anything about engines, as a service manager should, gets chills when they hears the top end rattle of this engine.

Be polite! Remember this is just a misunderstanding. No one is out to get you. Dealer personnel and MINI customer service rep awareness of this issue is much, much less than the online forums would lead you to believe. Most everybody wants to help you, so help them help you. Be assertive that your problem is real, but don't be an impolite, threatening, consumer. This will get you no where unless you truly do intend to litigate!

FYI, the normal tick, tick, tick sound of your engine is a solenoid engaging to push fuel through the injectors. This is truly a trait of the engine created by the decision to use solenoids for this purpose as opposed to a hydraulically actuated injector or a high pressure common rail.

However, the metal to metal noise is a problem. You don't have to argue with MINI about the finer technical points of valve lash, lifters, or chain tension technology. You need to tell them, "I'm never going to be able to sell this car while it sounds like this." That statement claims a financial loss created by ownership of the car, which touches on the foundation for the lemon laws in most states. This approach should be much more effective than trying to engineer a solution, which is MINI's responsibility.

And if you are still under the protection of your state's lemon laws, take the car to the dealership, attempt to get a repair, and open a lemon law case directly with your state's attorney office. You have a limited time to open the case, but the case can be open for a long while. So open the case to lock in the rights your state has afforded you. Opening a case does not begin a litigation. It only secures your right to do so at a later date.

Okay, so the problem came back again. This time they measured and found the timing chain out of specification, perhaps a result of my failure to head their keep the revs low warning. What can I say, I wanted them to be as sure there was a problem as I was.

The timing chain, guide rails, pulleys, sprocket, and the hydraulic tensioner were all replaced.

Problem solved for several weeks now whereas I was having the noise at least a third of the time.

This was my second tensioner replacement, and I asked them to ensure they put the new tensioner with the spring on it into the car. I am assuming they did. That seems to do the trick.

My MINI pride is returning and my new tires and wheels are going on this weekend. Thank God I didn't sell my MINI and go buy the Lexus IS when I was at my peak of frustration.

Please be patient but assertive of your nonacceptance of the issue when you work with your MINI dealer. If your expectations are continually unmet, go to another dealer and start talking with the MINI customer service people. Somebody cares. Bill Jacobs MINI in Chicago (Naperville) certainly took some convincing particullarly with a motoring advisor that knew very little about automotive mechanics, but once I got the service manager involved we worked the issue until it was solved.

My only remaining grudge is over the mileage. We put something on the order of 1,000-miles on my car fixing this problem. I will be taking this issue to my dealer to see if I can get a discount on the extended warranty. I never want to own a MINI out of warranty!

[jmbd7h3]

My wife's '07 Cooper 'S' has had this problem virtually from new. Firstly, dealer couldn't hear it (the car was always warmed up by the time we got it there!), then they topped up the oil (!!) which made no difference (surprise!), then they renewed the chain tensioner (lasted a couple of months), then this week fitted a 'modified' part. The thing is though, for the last two weeks the car has been running badly between 1200 - 1500 rpm (no matter which gear its in). It 'hunts' like mad and the car shakes if you sit stationary and hold it on these revs. It's too early to tell if the rattle is cured, but the erratic running isn't! Now I'm wondering if the engine's actually damaged itself due to BMW failing to acknowledge the extent of the issue soon enough. Going back to dealer again next week. The 'ammunition' gained from this forum is excellent! Anyone out there got any opinion on whether the engine on our car might be damaged?

In my opinion, the only probable resultant damage from the death rattle is to the valves. They are slapping shut harder than normal. Even this isn't a huge deal as most valve manufacturers design valves for a hard shut as this is a desirable thing when building volumetric efficiency. Hard closes are the result of longer open durations with taller valve movement, more air.

Of course the direct damage to the timing chain and related components is the real issue. When my timing chain was stretched, my mileage and throttle response fell off. This is because the timing was wrong. This should never get so bad the engine hunts for an idle though.

Take it in for sure. Perhaps you have a completely different problem. I would wonder if you have a balance issue as the 1,200-1,500 RPM range is sort of the out of balance vibration range for the engine that may be made worse by the balancer being messed up somehow.

If your problem is really bad and not the normal vibration, and the problem is new, I would venture a guess that something got done incorrectly during your last visit to the dealership. Perhaps left something loose, didn't put something back, left a tool in the engine compartment. Something along those lines.

How bad is it that the techs didn't find it when you were in last? I would have expected them to run across the problem during the normal testing and the timing they must have done.

[MiniHub]

Thanks for your comments jmbd7h3 - just confirmed what I thought. Nice to know I'm not alone here after all!!
Watch this space. The car is back with dealer as we speak. Like you, I cannot understand how come they let the car out the workshop the last time running as badly as it is. Did anybody test-drive it after they'd finished?! Yep, it's bad, especially in traffic due to the rev-specific nature of this problem.
Anyway, we'll see what they say next.
As for the new chain tensioner - I'm sceptical - time will tell!

[MiniHub]

Update on current situation. Car was booked in for Friday this week....but.....last Saturday night while driving along, the engine fault warning light came on. Ah ha!!! A quick call to Mini Emergency Service assured me the car would be safe to drive...slowly! and we should get it to dealer ASAP. Delivered car to dealer first thing Monday morning, where it has languished all week! The techie boys there put it on the diagnostic machine and the fault-code that came up indicated....guess what??......yep........timing chain tensioner!! Now, bear in mind this has already been replaced twice; the second time being the (allegedly!) modified part!
Unwilling to do the same repair again again, the dealer contacted BMW tech support. That took three days to get a reply!! Their advice? Fit the 'modified' part! Back to the drawing board there then!
Anyway, I'm now told the "latest modified part" has been fitted and certainly on the run home last evening, the car ran beautifully - much better than for some considerable time.
It's early days yet of course, but we'll see how long it lasts.
From a customer satisfaction point of view though, I reckon the car has been off the road for a full eight days overall because of this fault, and not a word of apology! Good job it's all been done under warranty, but it makes me begin to question whether we'd buy another Mini. After over 100 years of the internal combustion engine, is it really too much to expect a major manufacturer like BMW/Mini to be able to make a car run smoothly? Mmm.......the jury's still out on that one!

[BubbasMini]

I only quickly read through these replies but didn't see any yet with our ending. Our early build 07' MCS also had some top end noise but unlike some this didn't start until nearly 30K miles. It was very sporadic, much less than some noted here. Well, two weeks ago my wife was driving "Sly Cooper" at highway speed and the motor shut off. She coasted to a stop (it's an auto). Before it was towed to MINI, I checked it over a little on the side of the highway. Upon turning the motor over I could tell it had some valvetrain problem. I told that (eventually) to the Service Manager (yes, there's reasons why we ended up with the SM taking care of us and our MINI exclusively but that's an ugly story of bad, bad service for another thread).

Anyway, it's been 13 days and I got a call this afternoon from the SM and she indicated that indeed the timing chain broke. While they are not entirely sure of other damage, another entire motor has been ordered (as directed by corporate) and will be installed due to the volume of chain fragments inside the motor and oil pan. The SM has done a nice job keeping us informed thus far and we have a nice MINI loaner until then. For what it's worth, "Sly" was nearly at 40K when this happened. All the info in this thread will help us manage these issues going forward if it starts rattling again. So thanks in advance!

My wife really enjoys her MINI and so we hope to get another 40K miles out of it. Our fingers are crossed :-)

[BubbasMini]

Not sure if it'll help.....

Got "Sly" back yesterday. It was in for about 24 days. Entire motor was replaced. The official diagnosis was a "broken exhaust cam bolt, likely due to a seized vacuum pump". The SM said the bolt was sheared off.

Bottom line.....it runs like it has a new motor:):):) I am mostly concerned that any valvetrain instability contributed to this problem. As noted, our MINI (early build 07') did show some signs of the discussed valvetrain problems. I told the service advisor once that it sounded to me like a collapsed lifter so I think what we heard was what is described in these forums.

Guess we'll see.....

[Adeyw]

I had the clattering problem on my early 2007 S, it was also accompanied by a very strange 'hunting' noise when the engine wasn't really being pushed.

Had the timing chain tensioner replaced at around 30000 miles, after 2000 miles fault returned - BMW claimed stock of tensioners had run out and kept giving new dates for replacement - eventually after 3 delays (new design??) another tensioner was fitted, they then stated that the chain needed replacing - another couple of days without car, also replaced alternator belt. Problem now seems to have been cured.

Have to say Dealership (Sytners - Coventry) were extremely helpful and efficient

[jesshow]

Hi all,

Very informative thread. I, too, have an early '07 MCS with just over 30,000 miles on it (used to have a huge work commute). Back in mid September it started with the horrible noises, which I likened to an "angry lawnmower." I'm more of a gearhead novice than the rest of you, so I was bewildered. But recent internet hunting for information led me to the tensioner as a likely culprit. My dash would also vibrate thanks to the problem.

Some background: My local dealership "fixed" the problem twice since Sept, first blaming it on low oil (though it had just been in for routine maintenence about 4000 miles earlier and I had checked the oil recently) and then claiming I had used sub-par gas. I seriously doubted that a random fillup of 91 at the local Chevron/Shell/whatever would have led to such a dramatic noise. It was clear to me that they had not heard the noise and thought I must be exaggerating.

When I told them the noise persisted, they (meaning Alex Little at Universal City Mini) claimed the sound was normal and would eventually go away as the engine got the old "bad" gas out of its system. He said the car was safe to drive. We all know now that he was WRONG.

I finally got so fed up that I brought the car back in last week. Alex said I could stop by and have one of his technicians drive with me to see if he could hear the noise. He did, which makes me wonder how in the world they missed it all the other times? If they had taken a moment to actually drive the car, they should have caught it. I am also surprised that it took them this long to figure out, considering that BMW apparently issued a bulletin with the information earlier this year.

Anyway, I supplied Alex with YouTube videos of other MCS making the same horrible noise and suggested the tensioner after seeing it mentioned in other forums. He called this morning to confirm that it was the tensioner creating problems at cold start. I am not sure yet whether they fixed the current mechanism or replaced it entirely. Will see when I stop by later today.

I'm about to pick up the car and am worried that the issue will not be fully resolved. I'm also concerned that now my engine is now permanently damaged from driving it with existing, unresolved issues (that were purported as "normal"). The noise existed at times other than cold start, as well.

This all involved my paying for rental cars out of pocket. The promised loaner was never available. My car was also in the shop for about 3-5 days each time.

My warranty expires at 36,000/3yrs, and it looks like I'll reach the mileage expiration first--and soon. Given that so many other owners have not resolved the problem after the first tensioner "fix," and that I have now reached the milestones necessary to file a claim under the CA Lemon Law, I'm worried that this will drag out beyond my warranty and I'll be screwed....

Feedback/advice?

[blue meanie]

I have a 2007 mini cooper S with less than 27K. I've been hearing a noise but it was not loud at all and it did not just happen on cold start. I would only hear it from time to time when idling. Couldn't hear it while driving - either it went away or I simply couldn't hear it because of the normal noise from the engine. Now, a few days ago early in the morning after a cold night I started the car, didn't really warm it up and tried to pull out of parking space. The car started jerking and choking. It felt like it was about to stall. However, after a few minutes it seemed fine, but the engine light came on. Called the dealership and was told that if the engine light is yellow, it's not a big problem and I could drive the car safely. I decided to take it in for a check anyway. Now they are telling me that I had cylinders 1 and 3 misfire and that it indicates a faulty timing chain, so that it would have to be replaced along with guide rails and tensioner. And of course, now they are saying that it's not safe to drive it as it may cause damage to the engine. I'm glad I didn't listen to them the first time! (wonder what they would've said if I did drive it over these holidays as they initially suggested and if as a result it did damage the engine) So, because of the holidays, they didn't get to it yet, but are promising to start working on it on Monday. I will keep you posted of the progress or lack of it. Very frustrating....

[holliek2]

I have a 2007 Mini Cooper S, on lease - approximately 38,000 miles. Saturday, out of no where I heard this clacking, and turned the car off. Tried to turn it back on, would start. So, I had it towed to the dealership. Diagnosis- the timing chain jumped, causing damage so the valves. Here is the best part... even though the car was maintenanced 3 weeks ago at the dealership, they are saying that because at 30,000 miles I missed a preventative maintenance level 1 check up at the dealership (I have only brought the car in for service when the indicator told me to do so) they are refusing warranty repair and wanting me to pay the cost of repair even though my lease is up December 2010. After calling Mini Customer Service and complaining 3 times I got no where- the last service I had 3 weeks ago (the car checked out fine, full inspection, no problems) was 1200 past the maintenance. Has anyone else experienced these types of issues? I'm stuck w/ a car that doesn't work.

[MRoles]

I took delivery of my new Mini on June 7, 2007.

The "death rattle" and "sunroof issue" started in my car after having it only 4 months, 26,000 miles. I took it to the dealership- Oct 15,2008. They said the sunroof was lack of lubrication in the cassette and the engine noise could not be duplicated and was "normal".

Oct 28, 2008 I took my car back to the dealership again for the "death rattle" and "sunroof issues". The dealership said they could not duplicate. I was told that the engine noise I was hearing was "normal".

Feb 9, 2009 I took my car back to the dealership again for the "death rattle" and "sunroof issues". The dealership said my car was 3 qts low on oil but found no leakes and again, the sunroof issue they could not duplicate. The tech told me the sunroof had been adjusted as much as possible and nothing more could be done.

Feb 11, 2009 I took my car back to the dealership because they had overfilled the oil by about 2 qts and the "death rattle" was still there. The dealership said they removed less than 1/2 qt of oil but did replace the timing chain tensioner. Tech found that the chain tensioner check valve was not holding. Although the car did not fall into the production range for SI, it was decided that the tensioner should be replaced for customer satisfaction reasons.

Feb 26, 2009 I took my car back to the dealership because now the check engine light was on, the "death rattle" was still present. The dealership now found DME program error and programed complete car. Tech did acknowledge the engine rattling noise. The dealership installed a 2nd timing chain tensioner. A second timing chain tensioner in only 15 days!!!!??? The dealership assured me that Mini was looking into the "engine noise" and as soon as a fix became available, I would be contacted. I was told that the "engine noise" was not doing any damage to my engine but if later, it was found that the engine was being damaged, Mini would back their product and make all repairs at no cost to me.

March 10, 2010- now no longer under warranty. The sunroof opened on one side (passanger) and was closed on the other side (driver). The dealership found jammed sunroof cassette and broken motor gears-found gear was ground down from poor contact with casette motor. Sunroof motor and cassette repair estimate= $3,840.00 Estimate to close sunroof and NOT repair it=$700.00 I was so angry. I declined the sunroof repair and maintenance of oil change, front and rear brakes. The sunroof repair should have been made on Oct 28, 2009 or Feb 9, 2009, or Feb 11, 2009 or even Feb 26, 2009 while under warranty. I took my car to an upholstery shop who also works on sunroofs....they closed it for $75.00 NOT $700.00

Mini Customer service was contacted on March 23, 2010. Mini offered to supply the sunroof cassette and motor only if I paid the dealership the $800.00 labor fee to install the sunroof parts and paid the dealership for maintenance service of front and rear brakes and oil change. I explained to Mini Customer Service (Bill) that the oil change and brake maintenance on my car had already been completed. However, I was told that unless I paid the dealership for those maintenance items.....I was not getting the sunroof parts. Bill stated that Mini's offer of parts at no cost are for those customers who will spend money with the dealerships. I explained to Bill that he was making an offer that was unrealistic. I was not going to pay the dealership for maintenance that was no longer needed. Bill said he would call me back. Bill telephoned and said the offer remains the same. Mini would provide the sunroof parts ONLY if I paid the $800.00 labor fee AND paid for the oil change, front and rear brakes. I obviously would not pay the dealership for maintenance services that were already performed, therefore, my sunroof remaines inoperable.

Aug 23, 2010 my car was having extreme difficulty starting. I would have to figurously pump the gas pedal and after 6 attempts...it would finally start. Having received an extended warranty notice on the fuel pump...I took it to the dealership. The dealership replaced the fuel pump and FINALLY found the so called "fix" for the "death rattle". Mini supplied the parts but I had to pay the $844.40 labor fee! The dealership removed the valve cover to check for broken timing chain guide. Found timing chain guide to be broken and missing a large piece. Removed oil pan to retrieve piece of chain guide. Found timing chain had stretched causing guide to break. Timing chain measured 70mm being 2mm over standard spec of 68mm. Replaced timing chain, guide rails and tensioner (4th tensioner on my car since production)! The dealership refused to give me the timing chain or allow me to see it!

I have contacted Mini Customer service multiple times requesting reimbursement of diag fees, labor fees and requesting that they repair my sunroof (which does not work at all) and examine my engine for damage caused while driving more than 40,000 miles with a faulty timing chain that was miss diagnosed repeatedly by the dealership. Aaron Gillum of Mini Customer service stated that Mini has already provided $1,000.00 in parts and is not willing to do any more. The dealership stated that the sunroof repair parts offer was made on March 10th while maintenance was still needed on my vehicle. This is a lie and I have documented proof. Mini backs the dealerships and not their product.

What good is a warranty if they only recognize a problem exists after the warranty is up? What good is a warranty if they acknowledge there is a problem but have no fix until after the warranty expires and then you have to pay to fix it? Aaron Gillum said Mini will not refund or give any additonal customer goodwill for Mini is not funding my legal fees. Is Mini nervous about a possible law suite?

If your vehicle has the "death rattle", get to the dealership ASAP and demand a new timing chain, guide, and tensioner. My vehicle now has a "bottom engine knocking". I have no idea how much longer my engine will last.

[jmbd7h3]

Absolutely unethical. Issues discovered and not repaired under warranty fall under dealer rework. You should look into suing under the provisions of the Uniform Commercial Code (UCC).

When you talk to MINI, perhaps reminding them that the MINI community is well connected will help. Further, while they may be operating within the law, they certainly cannot say they provided the value they intended to provide to you with your MINI.

I'm just flabbergasted. You didn't buy a cheap car from a no name company. What value should you expect? Trying another dealer if you haven't already done so may help.

Honestly, I work with dealers on a daily basis. At some point, you have to worry about a customer becoming so angry and overwhelmed with helplessness that they may to something criminal. That is what I tell the dealers I work with, "ya, you may be within the law, but profit isn't worth your life." I do say that in a bit less polished way, but that is the idea.

To be honest, I've had a similar experience with MINI except that I didn't try as hard as you did nor keep good records. I was hoping to move up to a 335xi after my MINI, but I just put money down on a Fiat 500. I'm at the point where they can keep their damn car and their worthless service shop. As good of an idea as a MINI seems on paper, it just doesn't pan out when you have to deal with these types of issues. Life is too short to be wasted in dealing with unethical business partners.

You are not alone. Many of us have suffered without sharing our pain on the boards for fear of lessening the resale value if people really knew what owning a MINI was like. When I first contacted MINI corporate to deal with the death rattle, they told me they had never heard of the issue. I later found out they had purchased back several cars with the issue for testing.

All I can say is this too shall pass.



I took delivery of my new Mini on June 7, 2007.

The "death rattle" and "sunroof issue" started in my car after having it only 4 months, 26,000 miles. I took it to the dealership- Oct 15,2008. They said the sunroof was lack of lubrication in the cassette and the engine noise could not be duplicated and was "normal".

Oct 28, 2008 I took my car back to the dealership again for the "death rattle" and "sunroof issues". The dealership said they could not duplicate. I was told that the engine noise I was hearing was "normal".

Feb 9, 2009 I took my car back to the dealership again for the "death rattle" and "sunroof issues". The dealership said my car was 3 qts low on oil but found no leakes and again, the sunroof issue they could not duplicate. The tech told me the sunroof had been adjusted as much as possible and nothing more could be done.

Feb 11, 2009 I took my car back to the dealership because they had overfilled the oil by about 2 qts and the "death rattle" was still there. The dealership said they removed less than 1/2 qt of oil but did replace the timing chain tensioner. Tech found that the chain tensioner check valve was not holding. Although the car did not fall into the production range for SI, it was decided that the tensioner should be replaced for customer satisfaction reasons.

Feb 26, 2009 I took my car back to the dealership because now the check engine light was on, the "death rattle" was still present. The dealership now found DME program error and programed complete car. Tech did acknowledge the engine rattling noise. The dealership installed a 2nd timing chain tensioner. A second timing chain tensioner in only 15 days!!!!??? The dealership assured me that Mini was looking into the "engine noise" and as soon as a fix became available, I would be contacted. I was told that the "engine noise" was not doing any damage to my engine but if later, it was found that the engine was being damaged, Mini would back their product and make all repairs at no cost to me.

March 10, 2010- now no longer under warranty. The sunroof opened on one side (passanger) and was closed on the other side (driver). The dealership found jammed sunroof cassette and broken motor gears-found gear was ground down from poor contact with casette motor. Sunroof motor and cassette repair estimate= $3,840.00 Estimate to close sunroof and NOT repair it=$700.00 I was so angry. I declined the sunroof repair and maintenance of oil change, front and rear brakes. The sunroof repair should have been made on Oct 28, 2009 or Feb 9, 2009, or Feb 11, 2009 or even Feb 26, 2009 while under warranty. I took my car to an upholstery shop who also works on sunroofs....they closed it for $75.00 NOT $700.00

Mini Customer service was contacted on March 23, 2010. Mini offered to supply the sunroof cassette and motor only if I paid the dealership the $800.00 labor fee to install the sunroof parts and paid the dealership for maintenance service of front and rear brakes and oil change. I explained to Mini Customer Service (Bill) that the oil change and brake maintenance on my car had already been completed. However, I was told that unless I paid the dealership for those maintenance items.....I was not getting the sunroof parts. Bill stated that Mini's offer of parts at no cost are for those customers who will spend money with the dealerships. I explained to Bill that he was making an offer that was unrealistic. I was not going to pay the dealership for maintenance that was no longer needed. Bill said he would call me back. Bill telephoned and said the offer remains the same. Mini would provide the sunroof parts ONLY if I paid the $800.00 labor fee AND paid for the oil change, front and rear brakes. I obviously would not pay the dealership for maintenance services that were already performed, therefore, my sunroof remaines inoperable.

Aug 23, 2010 my car was having extreme difficulty starting. I would have to figurously pump the gas pedal and after 6 attempts...it would finally start. Having received an extended warranty notice on the fuel pump...I took it to the dealership. The dealership replaced the fuel pump and FINALLY found the so called "fix" for the "death rattle". Mini supplied the parts but I had to pay the $844.40 labor fee! The dealership removed the valve cover to check for broken timing chain guide. Found timing chain guide to be broken and missing a large piece. Removed oil pan to retrieve piece of chain guide. Found timing chain had stretched causing guide to break. Timing chain measured 70mm being 2mm over standard spec of 68mm. Replaced timing chain, guide rails and tensioner (4th tensioner on my car since production)! The dealership refused to give me the timing chain or allow me to see it!

I have contacted Mini Customer service multiple times requesting reimbursement of diag fees, labor fees and requesting that they repair my sunroof (which does not work at all) and examine my engine for damage caused while driving more than 40,000 miles with a faulty timing chain that was miss diagnosed repeatedly by the dealership. Aaron Gillum of Mini Customer service stated that Mini has already provided $1,000.00 in parts and is not willing to do any more. The dealership stated that the sunroof repair parts offer was made on March 10th while maintenance was still needed on my vehicle. This is a lie and I have documented proof. Mini backs the dealerships and not their product.

What good is a warranty if they only recognize a problem exists after the warranty is up? What good is a warranty if they acknowledge there is a problem but have no fix until after the warranty expires and then you have to pay to fix it? Aaron Gillum said Mini will not refund or give any additonal customer goodwill for Mini is not funding my legal fees. Is Mini nervous about a possible law suite?

If your vehicle has the "death rattle", get to the dealership ASAP and demand a new timing chain, guide, and tensioner. My vehicle now has a "bottom engine knocking". I have no idea how much longer my engine will last.

[et2qt]

Hey all, looking for some advice here.

1st incident - Took in car to dealer and said it rattled, they said it was nothing, it's just the Turbo sound. If the oil is low, just top it off.
2nd incident - Took the car back in a year later and said it rattled A LOT and was topping off every week. They replaced the timing chain, gaskets etc.
3rd incident - Took car back a few days later because it still rattled a lot. They replaced the cylinder coil.
4th incident - Car is over 36k, so we took it elsewhere to do an oil chance once. The rattle is really bad, so we took it back to dealer. They tell us it's a lack of maintenance even though we showed receipts. We've also topped off every so often. The car is an oil sucking machine and the problem hasn't been fixed. Now they say it's not a warranty issue because it seems that we didn't take care of the car correctly and we have to pay thousands of dollars for repair.

We're stuck right now because we can't possibly afford that kind of money. We would probably have to tow it to a local shop and get it fixed there. It's still frustrating because this is a recurring problem and now we're on the hook for it even though it's still within warranty period. We're still waiting for a final diagnosis from them right now...

Has anyone encountered or dealt with this before? We really need some advice on what to do. :'(

[Kaine]

I have also read this thread and noticed that there wasn't an ending quite like my experience. I too own an early 2007 MCS - this catastrophic engine failure was due to the chain tensioning bolt working it's way loose and then the oil pissing out of the engine. See the culprit on the left well that came out of my engine, the one on the right is a new replacement that is to be installed. replacement.https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=5a9e0f70a1&view=att&th=12c421cf24e581a1&attid=0.1&disp=inline&zw

The chain didn't break so the block apparently is ok see the photo.https://mail.google.com/mail/?ui=2&ik=5a9e0f70a1&view=att&th=12c421cf24e581a1&attid=0.6&disp=inline&zw

Well the dealer is rebuilding the engine under warranty - but unfortunately this is my second experience!! Yes they are rebuilding a completely new replaced engine which failed at 26,000 miles.

[H&YRACING]

ALL THESE ENGINES I SEE SHOW SIGNS OF LACK OF OIL CHANGES!!!
NOW I KNOW PEOPLE HAVE STRONG FEELINGS ABOUT THAT BECAUSE OF MEDIA AND WHAT THEY KNOW ABOUT OIL FROM THEIR FRIEND WHO SAID HE HAD HAPPEND TO HIM . BUT"" IN MY OPINION "" THESE TIMMING CHAIN TENSIONER PROBLEMS HAVE TO DO WITH THE "BROWNIE MIX" OR "MUD" OR "RESIDUE" THAT FORMS ON TOP OF THE CYLINDER HEAD FROM HIGH HEAT AND DUE TO THE OIL CONSUMPTION OR "BURN OFF" THIS CRAP FORMS AND CAUSES DRAIN BACK PROBLEMS DURING OPERATION . YOU ALL ADMIT TO FINDING YOUR OIL 1 OR 2 AND EVEN 3 QUARTS LOW ON OIL:thumbsup: . YES THE DIP STICK, WHO MADE THE DIPSTICK, MADE IT HARD TO READ THE OIL LEVEL. BUT THAT BEING THE CASE, SINCE ""YOU"" ALL DON'T MENTION ANY OIL LEAKS "YOU" HAVE TO CHECK THE OIL !!! " OPERATORS OF ANY THING CHECK THE OIL " IT MITE BE A LAWN MOWER OR EARTH MOVER OR AN AIRPLANE ,THAT OPERATOR CHECKS THE OIL!!! NOW I'M NOT SAYIN EVERY FILL UP, THAT WOULD REQUIRE REAL EFFORT!! SO BACK TO THE OIL ITSELF , FULL SYNTHETIC ON ANY TURBO ENGINE IS AMUST, IT IS IMPERITIVE TO THE ENGINES SERVICABILLITY OR "LIFE" !! MAYBE THE MINI "OIL" OR DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT OIL IS ONLY SEMI-SYNTHETIC OR MAYBE NOT AT ALL !! PLACES LIKE THAT ARE BROAD IN STATEMENTS MADE AND EXTREMELY SECRETIVE ABOUT THE SO.P. BECAUSE OF WARANTY MONEY AND STATISTICS THEIR SERVICE DEPARTMENT IS GRADED WITH TO ATTAIN AFILILATION. SO WHEN IT MIGHT BE TO LATE FOR ALL YOU BROWNIE BAKERS PORING IN OIL, WASHES DOWN ALL THATS ON YOUR HEAD"LOOK IN THERE W/ A LITE " TO THE PICK UP FOR THE OIL PUMP WHERE IT HOPEFULLY WON'T CLOG THE PICK UP SCREEN , THEN ITS PUMPED TO A FILTER WITH 8,000 TO 15,000 MILES OF FILTERING "MUD" FROM OVERHEATED, LOW OIL LEVEL , OIL . SOME TINY PIECES OF CARBON OR CRYSTALIZED PARTICLES OF RESIDUE GET CAUGHT IN TIMMING CHAIN TENSIONER- CHECK VALVES OR VANOS (VARIBLE CAM TIMMING CONTROL) DRAIN BACK OR ADVANCE VALVES AND ANY OTHER PLACE MINNUTE PARTICULATE CAN BUILD UP TO HINDER OPERATION . SO YOU WHINE ABOUT MISSING USE OF THE CAR FOR A FEW DAYS!! HA HA WHAT ABOUT MOST OF YOU I AM GUESSING ARE MAKING $300-$400 MONTLY PAYMENTS FOR YEARS ON THE THING THAT'S FULL OF BROWNIE MIX.. FINALLY CHANGE YOUR OIL W/ FULL SYNTHETIC, QUALITY NAME BRAND OIL, THEN "OPERATORS" CHECK YOUR OIL OFTEN , COLD ENGINE-CAR ON FLAT,HORIZONTAL SURFACE ?? YOU HIGHWAY SPEEDRACERS CHECK IT MORE!!! IF YOU DRIVE MAINLY IN TOWN STOP AND GO IN TOWN DRIVING.. ONCE A MONTH OR UNTIL "YOU" GET AFEEL FOR WHAT'S HAPPENING THEN MOST IMPORTANLY " IN MY OPINION " CHANGE THE OIL AT 5,0000 - 6,0000 MILES.. YA KNOW THE DEALER IN INDY SAYS $9,500 FOR A NEW ENGINE ,NOW THAT IS CLOSE TO 70% OF THE VALUE OF THE CAR . THAT DAMAGE WOULD EASLIY TOTAL A 3 OR 4 YEAR OLD CAR IN A CRASH IN WICH YOU HOPEFULLY HAVE INSURANCE IN MOST PARTS OF THE WORLD MINIS ARE LOCATED. HEY !!CAN YOU GET INSURANCE FOR LACK OF OIL CHANGES AND OIL LEVEL CHECK LAZINESS??? NOT IN THE USA AND WE CAN INSURE ABOUT ANYTHING ""IN MY OPINION"
TURBO DAVE :thanks:

[et2qt]

ALL THESE ENGINES I SEE SHOW SIGNS OF LACK OF OIL CHANGES!!!
NOW I KNOW PEOPLE HAVE STRONG FEELINGS ABOUT THAT BECAUSE OF MEDIA AND WHAT THEY KNOW ABOUT OIL FROM THEIR FRIEND WHO SAID HE HAD HAPPEND TO HIM . BUT"" IN MY OPINION "" THESE TIMMING CHAIN TENSIONER PROBLEMS HAVE TO DO WITH THE "BROWNIE MIX" OR "MUD" OR "RESIDUE" THAT FORMS ON TOP OF THE CYLINDER HEAD FROM HIGH HEAT AND DUE TO THE OIL CONSUMPTION OR "BURN OFF" THIS CRAP FORMS AND CAUSES DRAIN BACK PROBLEMS DURING OPERATION . YOU ALL ADMIT TO FINDING YOUR OIL 1 OR 2 AND EVEN 3 QUARTS LOW ON OIL:thumbsup: . YES THE DIP STICK, WHO MADE THE DIPSTICK, MADE IT HARD TO READ THE OIL LEVEL. BUT THAT BEING THE CASE, SINCE ""YOU"" ALL DON'T MENTION ANY OIL LEAKS "YOU" HAVE TO CHECK THE OIL !!! " OPERATORS OF ANY THING CHECK THE OIL " IT MITE BE A LAWN MOWER OR EARTH MOVER OR AN AIRPLANE ,THAT OPERATOR CHECKS THE OIL!!! NOW I'M NOT SAYIN EVERY FILL UP, THAT WOULD REQUIRE REAL EFFORT!! SO BACK TO THE OIL ITSELF , FULL SYNTHETIC ON ANY TURBO ENGINE IS AMUST, IT IS IMPERITIVE TO THE ENGINES SERVICABILLITY OR "LIFE" !! MAYBE THE MINI "OIL" OR DEALERSHIP SERVICE DEPARTMENT OIL IS ONLY SEMI-SYNTHETIC OR MAYBE NOT AT ALL !! PLACES LIKE THAT ARE BROAD IN STATEMENTS MADE AND EXTREMELY SECRETIVE ABOUT THE SO.P. BECAUSE OF WARANTY MONEY AND STATISTICS THEIR SERVICE DEPARTMENT IS GRADED WITH TO ATTAIN AFILILATION. SO WHEN IT MIGHT BE TO LATE FOR ALL YOU BROWNIE BAKERS PORING IN OIL, WASHES DOWN ALL THATS ON YOUR HEAD"LOOK IN THERE W/ A LITE " TO THE PICK UP FOR THE OIL PUMP WHERE IT HOPEFULLY WON'T CLOG THE PICK UP SCREEN , THEN ITS PUMPED TO A FILTER WITH 8,000 TO 15,000 MILES OF FILTERING "MUD" FROM OVERHEATED, LOW OIL LEVEL , OIL . SOME TINY PIECES OF CARBON OR CRYSTALIZED PARTICLES OF RESIDUE GET CAUGHT IN TIMMING CHAIN TENSIONER- CHECK VALVES OR VANOS (VARIBLE CAM TIMMING CONTROL) DRAIN BACK OR ADVANCE VALVES AND ANY OTHER PLACE MINNUTE PARTICULATE CAN BUILD UP TO HINDER OPERATION . SO YOU WHINE ABOUT MISSING USE OF THE CAR FOR A FEW DAYS!! HA HA WHAT ABOUT MOST OF YOU I AM GUESSING ARE MAKING $300-$400 MONTLY PAYMENTS FOR YEARS ON THE THING THAT'S FULL OF BROWNIE MIX.. FINALLY CHANGE YOUR OIL W/ FULL SYNTHETIC, QUALITY NAME BRAND OIL, THEN "OPERATORS" CHECK YOUR OIL OFTEN , COLD ENGINE-CAR ON FLAT,HORIZONTAL SURFACE ?? YOU HIGHWAY SPEEDRACERS CHECK IT MORE!!! IF YOU DRIVE MAINLY IN TOWN STOP AND GO IN TOWN DRIVING.. ONCE A MONTH OR UNTIL "YOU" GET AFEEL FOR WHAT'S HAPPENING THEN MOST IMPORTANLY " IN MY OPINION " CHANGE THE OIL AT 5,0000 - 6,0000 MILES.. YA KNOW THE DEALER IN INDY SAYS $9,500 FOR A NEW ENGINE ,NOW THAT IS CLOSE TO 70% OF THE VALUE OF THE CAR . THAT DAMAGE WOULD EASLIY TOTAL A 3 OR 4 YEAR OLD CAR IN A CRASH IN WICH YOU HOPEFULLY HAVE INSURANCE IN MOST PARTS OF THE WORLD MINIS ARE LOCATED. HEY !!CAN YOU GET INSURANCE FOR LACK OF OIL CHANGES AND OIL LEVEL CHECK LAZINESS??? NOT IN THE USA AND WE CAN INSURE ABOUT ANYTHING ""IN MY OPINION"
TURBO DAVE :thanks:

Replying in all caps really doesn't help. I just scanned a bit of what you say, but really what you're saying is pointless. When the oil is disappearing in the car and you have to top off every week or so, then there's a problem. Saying "Check the OIL!!!" is not going to solve the problem. Obviously, there's something horrendously wrong with the car. There's no puddle under the car, which seems to indicate that the oil is burning up, and fast.

Anyone have any luck or experience with lawsuits? This problem seems quite common...

[CaptainQ]

When I picked up my Clubman (2009) the CE Light was on right at the dealership. The technician test drove it, put a meter on it. I waited and waited. He then came to get me, opened the hood and showed me how he found the dipstick. I laughed - there was no way that's what it was but so be it. Drove it home and week later CE came back. My local mechanic reset it for me but said it was not throwing any code. It came back again, I brought it to a European specialist. He too reset it but couldn't get a code that meant anything.

In any case... It has always idled rough, sometimes will stall when coming off the highway and hot. I have complained up and down with no resolution.

The death rattle began about a year after I owned it. It got really bad lately - January '11. I brought it in, the technician said it was 2 quarts low. I thought it was strange for a car that as I sit here has 12,600 miles on it. So, I took his word that he knew what he was doing and went home.

Saturday I was out on the highway and the Oil Light popped on while I was going 75 MPH. Bright Red. I immediately pulled over. Oil everywhere. Today I get the call saying timing chain tensioner backed out. I told them it probably screwed the engine up badly. They said a boroscope was used to check the engine health and it was fine. What a crock... I can't wait to unload this lemon.